audio-talk

I have four 15" bass drivers for sale. These are Selenium 15W12P-Nd. I've used these in the baffles you see below as dipoles. In these baffles the driver need a 6db boost 50Hz downwards or they need a U-frame baffle to achieve this acoustically. The baffles can be included, they used to have a ...

If it's the Butterflies I remember then I expect they assume anyone old enough to want to watch it must be deaf by now.....

David wrote:And PS, Clive, were you suggesting there is an improvement in removing the v+ even when this isn't used a la JK Dac?

Yes, getting polluted power, even with no current draw, worked in my case but every USB port has a different noise profile so I expect it's impossible to generalise.

Device detection, the simple way anyhow, is for the host to look for either D+ or D- being pulled to 3v3 when something is plugged in...if the 3v3 is derived from Vbus and you've cut that line then its not going to be found... Not only cut that line, the connection doesn't exist in the type b on th...

Neal wrote: I would also suggest that perhaps silver cable has nothing to do with any change in sound but more to do with the completely different geometry of your DIY cable.

I did try copper and silver in the same config but th differences were small. I don't claim any magic due to silver.

Hi David. Since the JK review I've made very short USB cables using soledrable plugs Maplin sell. I've also tried Elijha Audio cables for the JK. All these cables omit the +5V wire as the JK dac can be charged via a separate cable. Overall I now have better results with these short cables than with ...

In addition to very short connections I've found that a cable with no +5V wire sounds better (usually the ground is needed). You need a 2nd USB for the +5V and sometimes a ground, this comes together at the type B plug.

This is why the iFi iUSBPower exists. It works well too.

I realise that for Bruce this is a real breakthrough. For the rest of us there will be some skepticism, I'm sure it works fine in his 300B OTL but he hasn't compared it to a well designed DC heater supply as he can't use DC in his circuit. I can understand why it's better than 50Hz or 60Hz but he's ...

I thought that's what I said....ok I did suggest an AVC but it's the same difference isn't it? Or do I have that wrong. I was thinking Dave Slagle AVC.

Once the gain structure of the system is setup I can't help thinking that with a DHT preamp the valve should see the full signal and the volume control (AVC?) Should be on the output of the preamp. Just my 2p. Yep, but its the effect that will have on the output impedance that puts me off the idea....

Once the gain structure of the system is setup I can't help thinking that with a DHT preamp the valve should see the full signal and the volume control (AVC?) Should be on the output of the preamp. Just my 2p.

Once the gain structure of the system is setup I can't help thinking that with a DHT preamp the valve should see the full signal and the volume control (AVC?) Should be on the output of the preamp. Just my 2p.

Andrew, for 2.5V out (2A3) what would be the volts in required, roughly....I have 5.5V and 7.5V options with my existing TX. I reckon the 7.5v should be fine, I used 9v RMS for 5v out, which gives 12v smoothed DC or about 7v working overhead between Vin and Vout. I may try this out as a test case, ...

Yes, sorry - "indirectly" should have been a clue!